Cutting Out the Middle Man

Wanted: Fresh lobsters

About a hour and half south of the city, my project has been support a lobster fattening initiative. So it was the logical we went directly to the source when we had a hankering for lobster this weekend.

Hopped in a car Saturday afternoon and made the bumpy but scenic drive down the coast. When we got to the village, we were told that Pak Thamrin, our lobster connection, was out at sea fishing and won't be back until after dark. The fishermen on shore casually suggested we take a fishing boat and go out to sea and find him. We looked at each other and decided why the heck not? The guy told us to wait while they went to fetch a boat engine for one of the many traditional high-bowed Acehnese fishing boats docked on the beach. Within 10 minutes, we were heading out to open water. How far were we going? Where were the fishermen taking us? We had no idea! By this time, the boat ride was such a left turn in our excursion, we didn't really care if we didn't have lobsters for dinner. The whole process was just too cool.

In about 10 minutes, we sighted a group of fishing boats anchored in the middle of the sea. Waves and smiles were exchanged. Our boat pulled up next to Pak Thamrin's vessal. The fisherman did not skip a beat, as if just about everyday he had a random Bule guy and Chinese girl chance upon his domain in the middle of the Indian Ocean asking for some fresh crustaceans. Pak Thamrin's fishing partner, equipped with his simple face mask, hopped on board and we turned back. About 100 feet offshore was the lobster car - it's essentially four big underwater mesh tanks where the lobstermen chuck in lobsters they find in the reef and feed them until they're a good size and will fetch a good price. There are narrow wooden planks surrounding the tanks. We hopped off the boat and stood on the gang plank and watched as the lobsters were brought up. First some little guys. Slowly bigger dudes emerged. Soon enough we had 8 choice lobsters. Back on terra firma, lobsters were covered in a fine sprinkle of sand and chopped up kelp to keep them alive for transport. Then the feisty creatures were packed into a paper box ready for the 70km ride back to the city.

We had the freshest lobsters possible that night. Juicy meat doused with fresh squeezed lemon juice, clarified butter, and sprinkled with Old Bay (for me). All paired with a cold beer. 2 of us had 6 lobsters - total decadency! Sunday night was a bowl of delicious lobster corn chowder made from the remaining 2 'sters. Cleaned up with some fresh crusty bread from the bakery...

...and you probably thought I was getting by on plain rice and water.

Lobster Chowder
or you can substitute canned crab meat

Serves 4 normal people or 2 really hungry people (with leftovers)

• 1/2 pack of bacon or any cured meat product, diced
• 1 onion, diced
• 3 cloves of garlic, chopped
• 1 medium potato, 1/4 inch dice
• 1/3+ stick of butter
• 6 cups of milk
• 1 cup of cream
• 1/2 can of corn kernels (or fresh kernels of 2 corns)
• 1 red pepper, diced
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 Tablespoon dried thyme
• 1/2 Tablespoon dried basil
• salt
• pepper
• 2 boiled and de-shelled lobster tails cut into large chunks
  

1. Fry bacon in stock pot.

2. Add onion and garlic and cook until onion is transparent

3. Add potato and season with thyme, basil, salt and pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes on high heat.

4. Add butter and then add milk slowly, 1 cup at a time. Toss in bay leaves. Make sure everything is submerged under the milk. Bring the liquid to a boil and then reduce to simmer.

5. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes

6. Add corn and pepper and add additional spices to taste.

7. Add cream and bring to to simmer.

8. Add lobster to soup and turn off the heat after about 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste.