Wednesday, July 27, 2005

Airports, here I come!

Just spent 10 minutes trying to decipher my plane schedule for my 3 trips in the next 3 weeks. Here are some interesting numbers for you to ponder.

Number of airports I will visit: 10

Banda Aceh, Medan, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Jakarta, Singapore, Hong Kong, San Francisco, Washington, Tokyo

Number of hours I will spend inside of an airplane: 61:30

Number of layovers I will have: 14

Number of hours I will spend at the airport*: 69

...at least I'll get plenty of frequent flyer miles out of it

*Estimate, include arriving on average 2 hours before a flight, layover time, overnight in Singapore airport, time waiting for baggage, and customs. Barring delays, of course.

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

A Day at the Beach

I spent this last Sunday at the beach in Lhonga with about 10 of my coworkers and their family. The weather was awesome, but we had to drive to 3 different spots before finding the perfect beach. For the past 2 weeks, because of high winds combined with high tides, there has been a lot of flooding along the coastline, so some of the spots we had planned to go to were totally submerged.

We climbed our way (up and down) to a hidden cove along the coast. The rocks were all really really sharp because the tsunami had completely changed some of the coastal geological formation. Then we ended up at an awesome spot where some of the guys fished and the rest of us ran around the beach and swam. All in all, a great day in the sun.

Cove along the coast
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Who wants to go surfing? ...and kill yourself in the 10-ft wave...
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Completely deserted beach
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Gone fishin'. The driver caught 5, the other 2 guys - 0.
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It's a Rambutan man! Doesn't he look like Wilson the Volleyball from 'Cast Away'?
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Rambutan Wilson go bye bye
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Sunday, July 24, 2005

Shake Shake Shake!

Earthquake #4

Magnitude? 5.4
Date? July 24, Sunday, 5:53:34 AM local time
Epicenter? 75 miles WSW of Banda Aceh or 5.179°N, 94.761°E
What was I doing? Sleeping. This shaker actually prompted me to get out of bed.


Earthquake #3*

Magnitude? 5.2
Date? July 23, Saturday, 7:44:57 AM local time
Epicenter? 115 miles W of Banda Aceh or 5.456°N, 94.308°E
What was I doing? Just waking up
Song Playing on my iPod? Coldplay, Fix You (I use my iPod as my alarm clock now)

*I feel minor ones all the time, only reporting the big(ger) ones.

Friday, July 22, 2005

Lonely Planet Indonesia, Pg 474

Taman Tepi Laut Cottage (Tel 770095; basic doubles 20,000Rp, cottages 65,000-130,000Rp) is the place to go if you want to relax in comfort. It has immaculate rooms and cottages and a saltwater pool fed by the incoming tide.

This was a hotel owned by one of the project staff's family. It was a pretty well known resort in these parts. There was a 30-room hotel, a restaurant, 2 swimming pools, the family house and the garage. The tsunami flattened the hotel and wiped away the entire property. Haykall's mother was in her car when the waves came and was swept up to the top of the mountain where she wondered by herself for 2 days in the jungle before being discovered.

The family doesn't have the fund to rebuild the hotel but is now raising money to start a small coffee shop on the property. I hope one day they will be able to rebuild.


What's left of the hotel
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Climbing the hill above the hotel site. The top of the hill offers a fantastic panoramic view. The Japanese built a lookout point here during WWII.
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The saltwater swimming pool
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Wall of Fame?

Chris and I have spent the past few weeks taking pictures and assembling a big picture frame with photos of the entire project team. Everyone from Aceh and Jakarta is mixed together in no particular order-from the big boss, to the drivers, to the accountants, to the maids, to the village facilitators. It's been a big hit so far, and a great way for me to learn everyone's name!

Can you find me?
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Wednesday, July 20, 2005

Acehnese Wedding

I went to a traditional Achenese wedding this weekend. Unlike American weddings, Achenese will have the wedding at either the bride or the groom's house. It's typically a 4 part ceremony. There's a small ceremony at the bride's house, followed by a small ceremony at the grooms house. Then, there's a larger religious ceremony at the mesjid (mosque). A few days after the mosque ceremony, there's a large reception/lunch at the bride or the groom's house. That lunch is the biggest deal, where lots of guests are invited.

This past Saturday, our office was invited to our IT guy's brother's wedding. About 10 of us from the office went. The bride and groom do not mingle with the crowd, instead, they sit in a room inside the house where the guest go in to pay their respects. The room is intricately decrorated with the couple sitting on this shrine like pedestal. The bride dresses in the traditional color of the district, so in the district of Aceh Besar, the brides dress in either yellow or light orange. The wealth of the 2 families are demonstrated by how much gold the bride is wearing.

The wedding lunch. Notice that the men's & women's eating areas are segregated.
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DAI gang with the bride and groom
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Saturday, July 16, 2005

Reminds me of going to Band Camp...

At 7am this morning, 59 young men and 1 young woman arrived at our office. They were picked to participate in the Chevron sponsored vocational studies program. This is a pilot program with only 2 areas of study - welding and electronic circuits. The program will be held at a vocational training center in Riau (on the eastern coast of Sumatra, 24 hrs away by bus). They will be there for the next 3 months. 3 months!!!

Most of the participants who live close to the city arrived with their family in tow. The scene reminded me of going off to band camp or on a band trip; the kids excited but anxious, and the parents prould but full of worry.

The one brave girl
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Family members saying goodbye
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Late arrivals from a far away village
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What a happy bunch
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Branding the bus
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Off they go!
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Friday, July 15, 2005

Yikes!

We're beginning to work in 5 more villages down the western coast. A couple of our guys went to visit the villages yesterday.

The already yucky road coupled with 2 days of rain didn't help...luckily, they got the car out and made it home by 8pm.

Kind of glad I didn't go.

Oops!!!
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Thursday, July 14, 2005

Tsunami Fund

For the past few weeks, I've been going out around town distributing my company's Tsunami Fund. Back in January, the company collected about $10,000 in contribution from our employees around the world. About $5000 went to the two employees that were based in Aceh at the time of the tsunami. What to do with the other 5 grand? One of our staff wanted to assemble backpacks with school supplies for kids and other ideas included building a house for someone. At the end, the idea was to have each of our staff (by then, we had a staff of 12) to nominate someone they know who lost a lot of their possession or livelihood in the tsunami. So the past 3 weeks, I've been going out to all parts of Banda Aceh, into these people's homes (for one guy, he lived in a different place each night and we visited him at the government pawn shop office where he had spent the previous night). The demography/profession of the recipients varied widely. There was a lady in her 50s who had lost her cake making business, a young girl in her late teens who lost both of her parents and needed money to continue schooling, a handyman who lost all of his tools, an older woman whose 20 relatives had been living with her since January, and a young man looking to start a curtain making business. For most of these residents of the city, have have not received any help from aid organizations and do not know how to ask for aid. People often point out how high the flood water reached or the railing they held on to for life. The entire experience has been really humbling and I really hope these 15 lucky people will put the money to good use.

This young man Zul Irfan's looking to start a curtain business.
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About a $300 went to Mulyani to re-start her tailor business
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Sunday, July 10, 2005

Chicken and Beans!

I was watching Oprah with Tom Cruise as the guest on TV this evening (by the way, that guy's gone crazy). Adi, the "house boy" (he's 31) came in and invited Chris and I to have some ayam (chicken) with the drivers and guards. My impression was they had bought the chicken from some restaurant or something, but instead, I found this little set up out front:








This reminds me of BBQ-ing in the dark in Berkeley at the BPR House on Regent.

Adi is the one scooping out the chicken. Zal, the security guard is with the flashlight.




That chicken was the spiciest thing I've had since I landed in Aceh. It was so damn spicy that I almost started hiccuping. My mouth might still be partially numb.






Zubir the guard has the best seat in the house - on his motorcycle





Seems like I've been posting about food a lot recently...

My project has changed some policies regarding the guest house. Now, the cook will only make breakfast and I have to fend for myelf for lunch and dinner. But I no longer have to pay the $8/night for my room. So from now on, we order in for lunch and I cook my own dinner. A tasty bowl of mie kepiting (fried noodles with a whole crab) runs about $1.50, the same price as a can of S&W Premium Red Kidney Beans...

...oh but I did buy enough kidney and garbonzo beans to toss together an Intermezzo-like salad.

Friday, July 08, 2005

Go KK!

Congrats to Kristina! She just got accepted into exCHANGE FOR PEACE

She'll be one of 30 participants from conflict countries and high-tension areas (and from US and Switzerland) who will be trained in Switzerland for 2 weeks on leadership development, conflict transformation and public relations. This year's theme is using sport as a means of promoting peace.

Kristina - get ready to kick that soccer ball!!!

Community Based Recovery

We finished the new propaganda for our CBR program today. Here's an excerpt:

Tsunami-affected villages in Aceh have two options: either Breakdown or Break Through. The Community-Based Recovery (CBR) Initiative assists communities to Break Through--already affecting 52 Acehnese villages in very real ways, everyday--and to achieve real impacts:

▪ strengthen trust between citizens and government;
▪ reduce barriers to return, thus maximizing citizens' options;
▪ increase access to basic services;
▪ re-develop or develop new economic livelihoods; and
▪ ensure community success through empowerment.

Our project has developed a systems-oriented community recovery program that uses skilled facilitation to empower, build positive-thinking, and target goal-oriented success in a systems approach of community planning, mapping, and decision-making. CBR has already dispersed some IDR 15.3 billion (or approximately US$1.62 million) in entry grants to 52 communities, aimed at injecting much-needed income into villages, generating hope, and motivating villages to develop the future of their villages. CBR can utilize both USG and private sector funds and is designed to be scaled up depending upon available resources.

CBR is community-driven, designed specifically for post-Tsunami Aceh to assist in physical, social, and psychological recovery and reconstruction. Through a cadre of robustly trained, community facilitators, programs are developed by communities through community consultation, ensuring inclusion of aspirations of all village members – including women and young people. Our trained facilitators will be armed with necessary resources and skills to encourage Positive Thinking and assist communities to more successfully confront a range of challenges: primary and secondary trauma, intra-village conflict, good governance in times of distress, trust-building and community planning for durable solutions. Trusted relationships will be built between USAID-CBR and communities to more thoroughly address immediate and long-term recovery needs. With sufficient resources, CBR will assist reconstruction of key small-scale local infrastructure such as health clinics, village sanitation, schools, and community centers.

CBR improves village governance through more active, responsible, principled leadership based upon processes of inclusive community planning--more swiftly and efficiently redeveloping physical and social infrastructure. CBR can serve as a platform to facilitate other USAID and non-USAID inputs into villages to ensure realization of community targets. While we maintain a zero-tolerance policy vis-a-vis corruption of project resources, gender inequality and environmental degradation, we contribute to participant villages' development of durable good governance--a much needed commodity in Aceh. Community leadership is developed and strengthened from the grassroots.

CBR contributes to enhanced trust between government and people resulting in better service delivery through better interaction. Historically in Aceh trust has remained extremely low--a key impediment both to sustainable development and lasting peace. CBR facilitation improves collaboration between the people and their government. Village-level data tracking will demonstrate the increased useful participation of officials in local civic life and breaking through the barriers of previous distrust.

CBR encourages diversification of livelihoods and income-generating activities that may be more productive than pre-tsunami. This is particularly important where immediate return to previous livelihoods remains impossible due to loss of fertile land to contamination, land-fill, or the sea. More income means more choice and more options for villagers and certainly means more control over personal and community decision-making.

CBR is changing villagers' perceptions and mindsets. Instead of waiting for reconstruction to come to them, they make it happen themselves. Sleeping and traumatized minds awake, communities Break Through and engage in meaningful physical and social reconstruction. CBR villages will demonstrate the most rapid recovery and most sustainable recovery. And since these villages are parts of larger social and governmental systems, their success will have a direct, positive impact throughout Acehnese society.

Wednesday, July 06, 2005

More Home Improvements

Check out my new purchases! I'm also thinking about getting a new bed.

DAI better provide me with free freight service when I go home!

My new teak wood bench/shelf.

My new orchid. Check out the awesome roots! It'll boom soon enough!

Mmm...Salami...

This is an IM conversation with my cousin Will.

Zzzzzzgirl: i have to talk about hotdogs tomorrow in my English class at 8am!!!
Wizadpt007: fun
Wizadpt007: Kobayashi won - 49!
Wizadpt007: hot dogs are icky
Zzzzzzgirl: i've been dreaming about pork products
Wizadpt007: ...
Wizadpt007: your mom told me you're coming home in August
Zzzzzzgirl: yeah, i'm going to eat bacon and bbq everyday
Wizadpt007: dreaming about pork might not be that healthy
Zzzzzzgirl: oh well, i don't care
Wizadpt007: although I guess as long as you're not getting chased by a large ham, it's ok.
Zzzzzzgirl: great, now i'm going to have a nightmare about a running ham hock
Wizadpt007: that's dirty
Wizadpt007: Freud would have a field day with the pork and stuff
Zzzzzzgirl: he would, that's for sure
Zzzzzzgirl: after dinner conversations between Chris and I seem to always gravitate towards bacon or about prosciutto or salami
Wizadpt007: wow
Wizadpt007: so do you want me to send you a salami or something?
Zzzzzzgirl: i prefer spicy salami
Wizadpt007: I'll send you a salami sometime
Zzzzzzgirl: ok you do that, i'd be in heaven
Wizadpt007: there was a NY deli a couple of years ago that sent a couple of thousands of pounds of salami to the troops
Zzzzzzgirl: it's gotta be illegal, but you should try to send a whole link. that would be AWESOME
Wizadpt007: illegal? really?
Wizadpt007: you'd probably have to open it and eat the entire thing right there to avoid being caught
Zzzzzzgirl: who would catch me?
Wizadpt007: I dunno, the salami patrol?
Wizadpt007: traveling the streets at night, confiscating contraband salami

Tuesday, July 05, 2005

Apakah kamu bicara bahasa Inggris?

Translation: Do you speak English?

I've started teaching English every morning at 8am to the people in the office. Well, it's more like me picking a topic for discussion and then facilitating that discussion. Most of the staff have pretty good reading/writing skills but need to improve their listening and speaking skills.

I pick an article from the internet and distribute it for them to read. The next day, we have a discussion about it. Yesterday's topic was Intel's plan to spend $30m to build a free wi-fi network in Banda Aceh. Today was about the Australian woman who was caught with 8kg of pot at the Bali airport, she's been sentenced to 20 years in jail in Indonesia. Tomorrow morning, we'll discuss food eating competitions - inspired by the recent Coney Island Hot Dog Eating Competition (49 dogs and buns in 12 minutes!!!)

Anyway, I need your help! If you come across a stimulating article (that is not too long) please email it to me! Thanks!

Sunday, July 03, 2005

Got Rice?

Rice is the basis to every meal in Indonesia. Even in the Indonesian language, there are 4 words for rice:

Sawah: Rice in the field, also means rice paddy
Gabah: Unmilled rice that's been separated from the stem
Beras: Milled but uncooked rice
Nasi: Cooked Rice

So needless to say, cleaning up the rice paddies is a really important and urgent task in the reconstruction process. This weekend, we were invited to one of the villages we work in on the eastern coast of Aceh to celebrate with the villagers the completion of sawah clean-up. I learned how to say, congratulations on cleaning up of your rice paddy (selamat atas selesainya pern bergihan sawah) and I hope you will be able to plant rice soon (saya berharap semoga anda dapat segera turun kesawah).

We were greeted with big (and I mean big) pots of lamb and jackfruit curry with big (and I mean big) tubs of rice. And like everyone else, I sat on a fallen coconut tree and ate with my hand (right hand only).

I think I have had more nasi the last four weeks than I have had the last four years. I don't think the low-carb craze will ever catch on here.

Acehnese take out - rice, chicken with jackfruit wrapped in banana leaf and butcher paper. All for $0.75.

Gimme some goat!

Come and get your nasi!

Fachrul and I enjoying our goat curry

Public Service Announcement

I have changed the format setting on my blog - now you will only see the 15 most recent postings. If you are a first time visitor or just want to revisit older postings and pictures, please check out the 'My Archives' section in the right pane.

Saturday, July 02, 2005

Article in Washington Post

In early May, Washington Post did an article on tsunami rebuilding and villagers remarrying. I didn't pay much attention to the article then, as I had no idea I'd be landing here! Anyway, I went back and re-read the article more carefully yesterady and realized the article was mostly about Lamteungoh, the village with the waterbottle spelling out its name and mentioned a few times our Community Based Recovery (CBR) project - they called us USAID :-) The article also extensively quoted Baharuddin, the village leader carrying the watermelon in my previous post. Ha!